Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Domo

Domo, a country style Japanese restaurant in Denver, is many layers beyond what's expected in an average restaurant. As you enjoy the food, don't forget to explore the beautiful Japanese garden including real bamboo and water lilies, a Mongolian ger. Also don't miss the museum of Japanese folk art filled with sake cups of WII soldiers, a traditional tea room, and an viewing area of the world class Akido studio; you will catch live classes if you are lucky.

The entrance is picturesque and I feel as if I'm stepping into a Japanese fishing village hundreds of years ago. Tables are giant slabs of rock, and stools made of large tree stumps with cloth cushions. The hostess is friendly and wait-staff courteous and attentive. I'm seated in a nestled table near a window shaded by gauze like curtains that look at least 50 years old. Lighting is a combination of natural sunlight and oversized branch and newsprint chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. I'm entralled.
Brown rice green tea is served in a large bowl, but I'm surprised to see a tea bag in the bowl. The menu is quite extensive including Teriyakis, Udon, Soba, Nabes, and Sushis of course. I was pleasantly surprised to receive 6 side dishes of steamed, stir fried, pickled vegetables and meats. Also my favorite, soba noodle salad.
Since it was a raining day, I opted for the "Sankai Nabe @ $22.75" which includes Salmon, Tilapia, mussles, chicken and pork teriyaki. The portion is huge! There are 3-4 pieces each of chicken and pork teriyaki, a large piece of salmon and large piece of tilapia, among tofu, bean sprouts and seaweed. I knew at this point that I'm definitely going to need a doggie bag. The broth was surprisingly flavorful. I am used to expecting a dashi based soup stock, instead I taste more soy or teriyaki flavor, with a hint of spiciness. While its a little too strong to sip, the soup goes quite will with rice. I'm still unsure about the compatibility of chicken and pork teriyaki with fish based soup.

Domo also offers a 3 or 5 course Sushi meal which includes side dishes. Since the sushi is uniquely flavored, no extra soy sauce or wasabi required (actually strongly discouraged by the chef/owner, see story of soy sauce), I had to try it. When I asked about the type of tuna they serve, I was told that they only offer Albacore tuna to protect other endangered species of tuna. I love the taste of Albacore, and this one is fresh, rich, and creamy with a hint of soy sauce and wasabi served on top of lightly flavored sushi rice. One disappointment is that white tendons in the fish are still present. While the taste and texture of the fish was perfect, the soft by stringy tendons marred the experience somewhat.

Food: 4 out of 5
Authentic flavors and evident attention to detail. Generous portions. Great fresh fish, but with stringy tendons attached. For the folks used to sushi bar style cuisine, the style at Domo might be a shocker, but keep an open mind and enjoy the full immersion experience of Japanese country culture and cuisine.

Service: 4 out of 5
The wait-staff was courteous, friendly, and fast paced. Only a few minor suggestions: 1.) I noticed the hostess walk around and greet the guests and ask if everything tastes good, I never got the greeting... maybe she became too busy later in the evening. 2.) I had to pack my own left overs which included three containers, and was given no plastic bag to carry it all home until I had to ask for it. 3.) As I read on the website, the chef/owner mentions that a good restaurant can be judged by the quality of its hot towel service at the beginning of the meal, to enable eating sushi with hands. No hot towel service was offered tonight.

Will I go again?
Definitely. I would bring any sushi lover of anyone interested in an authentic Japanese cultural experience. I want to try to 3 or 5 course sushi meal next time, or a Donbury. If I'm not driving, I definitely want to try their sake, the only Japanese restaurant in Denver that uses official sake tasting cups.

Have you been to Domo's? Leave your comments!

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